July
Thursday 2
It was a big week at work and Thursday night, after my shift I headed to the airport for my long trip north (after a quick detour south).
I bought my flights with Qatar Airways and despite a couple of cancellations due to the war in Iran and a hefty price tag of about $3000 return, everything worked out on the day.
I boarded QR7138 from Canberra to Melbourne at1850.
Just over an hour later, at 2005, I landed in Melbourne ready and eager for the next, and longest leg.
I took QR905 leaving Melbourne around 2245. It arrived in Doha at 0550 the next day. That meant I had under two hours until my final (or so I thought) flight.
At some point I decided the best, next course of action was to continue to Beirut, right after I arrived in Istanbul.
I was planning on maybe going the following day. I had accommodation booked in Istanbul, but I thought it was better to rip the bandaid off and keep going.
So at 0735 I hopped on QR239 from Doha to Istanbul.
I had my drone and a whole heap of things I wasn’t going to need so I thought it would be better to leave it in Turkey before continuing on my adventure.
I landed in Istanbul at 1155 and decided to take the new(ish) metro into town.
I was a bit short on time and luckily my friend met me at Gayreteppe. He collected my gear and transferred me to the metro for Sabiha Gokcen airport – on the other side of Istanbul.
At 1445 I arrived at the airport – giving me an hour and 15 to check in to my DOMESTIC flight.
I’m not sure I realised that the flight I booked to Beirut had a stop in Dalaman along the way.
In the end it wasn’t a bad thing because it meant I was flying domestic and needed less of a lead-in time.
In the end, I had a bit of time up my sleeve for a snack – the first of my 4000 Iskender kebabs during the trip.
At 1615, PC2290 was taking off from Istanbul for the quick, 1h15 flight to Dalaman.
I landed at 1730, giving me plenty of time before my 2045 ongoing flight to Beirut.
LEBANON + SYRIA
Wednesday 8
At 1700 Ajet’s VF318 was taking off en route to Sabiha Gocken Airport in Istanbul.
At 1910 I was landing in Turkey.
It only took me 30 minutes to get out of the airport, and I’d booked a transfer to make my trip in to town a little smoother.
Typically, it was a bit of an ordeal to find the tour operator, but I managed in the end.
I booked the transfer with Sun Transfers and it cost me 52 euros or about $85 dollars.
The trip took an hour.
Around 2100 we arrived at Taksim Square – a short walk away from my hotel.
I had a quick turn around then headed down the hill to meet my friend for dinner and a drink.
We ended up in Karakoy having a couple of beers in a bar called Berlin before heading down the road for dinner.
It’d been a long day for both of us, so around 2330 we called it and about half an hour later I was crawling into bed.
Thursday 9
After a busy few days, we had a slow morning before ambling down Istiklal Cadessi towards Galata.
We met a friend there for a “traditional” Turkish breakfast.
We decided to hit up Cafe Privato which wasn’t as good as I remembered, but it wasn’t bad either.
We were there for about an hour and a half before heading round the corner for a drink in Soho House.
After a couple of hours we headed up the street to Beyoglu for another drink. We ended up Street Pub mostly for its location and people watching potential.
My friend had never been to Istanbul before, so in the afternoon I decided to take him to a Hamam – settling on Firuza Hama – mostly for its proximity to our hotel.
Battered, bruised but very clean, we headed back up the hill around 1800 and got ready for dinner and a drink.
We ended up at Upperist for a cocktail and sunset before heading down the road to Durumzade for a “traditional” dinner.
After dinner we decided to take the ferry across to Kadikoy for a look at Istanbul’s “Asian side”.
We were home in bed by about 2330 after a long lazy day.
Friday 10
After a lazy, local breakfast (from a Simit man on Taksim Square) we headed back to the airport for our flight to Dalaman.
We arrived early – around 1030 – giving us plenty of time to relax before our flight.
So relaxed we were – we missed our flight.
We were at the gate, relaxing, or rather at the gate next door, and at some point we said – we better get up and see what’s going on with boarding – only to find out the flight was closed.
Thankfully, it was only $120 to check on to the next flight. And the stupidity only set us back an hour.
We should have landed at 1400 (TK2558) but in the end we were walking out of the airport around 1530. In a stroke of luck our driver (despite telling us otherwise) was still there.
I’m glad I hadn’t booked a replacement transfer when we missed our flight.
We booked the transfers with SunTransfers and it cost 50 euros.
At 1630 we arrived at the hotel – or close enough to it. We had a quick freshen up, set up the GoPro to capture sunrise, before heading out to explore.
We decided to drop off our putrid, sweaty washing, and then went to take a look around the bazaar.
After a bit of shopping, we settled in for a drink of five at Deep Blue Bar.
Before dinner we had a sunset wander along the waterfront.
We ended up at Puerto Terrace for a low key dinner before heading back to the hotel, via the supermarket.
By 2300 we were tucked up in bed, recovering from the long day that had just been.
Saturday 11
We got up early-ish – collected the washing – then headed along the water front to the Farout Cruises offices.
We were only there a couple of minutes then had to walk back down the hill to the port. It was sort of annoying because we’d just walked past the port to get to the offices and I KNEW we’d have to go back.
Anyway, it was only a five minute detour so it was fine.
About 1000 we were boarding the boat – and settling in for a quick safety briefing.
We had some snacks and spent some time exploring our home for the next four days, before settling in and getting comfortable.
Our first stop for the day was Kelebekler Vadisi (Butterfly Valley). By 1130 we were sailing towards the famous beach.
Not long later we were plunging into the beautiful, clean, fresh water.
We spent a couple of hours swimming before climbing back on the boat for lunch.
After lunch we turned back and headed towards Ölüdeniz for a swim.
We did the long-ish swim to the beach and spent some time watching the kids jumping off the rocks.
Next stop was a little way east: Gemiler bay.
We had tea and bickies – a ritual the kids loved – before a relaxing afternoon.
We had another swim and a relaxing afternoon before going over to St Nicholas Island (Gemiler Adasi) for a little hike and to watch the sun dip down below the horizon.
Around 2045 we headed back to the boat for dinner and our first night sleeping under the stars.
Sunday 12
After a relaxing morning – breakfast in the sun and swimming in Gemiler Bay – we headed east for Kaş.
We stopped at a bay which Google reliably tells me was called Güvercin ada dalış noktasi for a swim before continuing on to the town.
Around 1100 we docked in Kaş and headed into town for a look.
The heat was pretty oppressive away from the coast and so it wasn’t long before we were seeking refuge in a cafe in the old town.
After a wander around town we were back on the boat around 1300 in time for lunch.
In the afternoon we found a little bay near Çamlık koyu to for a swim before settling in near Kekova for the night.
We had a long relaxing swim and spent the afternoon away in the sun.
Monday 13
I was up early – around 0530 to see the sun rising above the coast.
A couple of hours later, everyone else started stirring.
By 0800 we were hoeing into our breakfast.
We had another swim – because – when in Rome – before sailing slowly along the sunken city coastline.
By 1030 we had the castle at Kekova in our sights.
At 1100 we were on land – ready to tackle the hike up to Simena Castle.
It’s not a long walk, or a hard one, but in the searing sunshine, it’s no walk in the park.
We got up in about 20 minutes. Took our selfie and were done.
On the way down we stopped at the I Am Here Cafe for some homemade ice cream.
When we got down we had a little swim at Likya Mezari and I tried to get the busted drone up again, before heading back to the boat.
Lunch was on the table when we arrived.
We had a quick freshen up (avoiding the busy shipping lane at the same time) before heading off in search of our next destination.
At 1420 we arrived at our next stop – Gokkaya Bay.
We set up for the evening and were straight in the water to cool down.
We spent the afternoon swimming and chilling on the boat.
We even had time for a quick beauty routine.
Dinner was ready at 2000 and there was a special treat for my sister on the eve of her birthday for dessert.
For something very different, and rather random, we went to Smugglers Inn Pirate Bar – a small bar in the middle of nowhere.
A had a couple of drinks before calling it a night.
All the young people there (from the other boats) looked as though they were ready to go right off and we didn’t think we needed to witness that.
Back on the boat it looked like my nieces and nephews were having a party of their own – taking advantage of the disco lights and mirror ball on the boat.
There was lots of singing and dancing before finally, we decided to call it a night.
Tuesday 14
I woke up early again to see the sunrise before jumping in for my last swim.
We had one last breakfast on the boat before heading towards Çayağzı Yat Limanı.
We thought our trip was over but we still had time.
We arrived at the port around 0815 and while we were all washed up and ready to disembark, it was too hot to sit around sweltering.
We only had an hour, but an hour is plenty for one last swim.
We were on the hunt for turtles – we did see one but we couldn’t manage to get close.
At 0900 we were back on the boat getting washed up again, and at 0930 we were bundled onto a dinghy headed to the port.
I had organised transfers to Kaş for some of us and Antalya for the rest. I didn’t want any drama in the heat – and of course, that’s exactly what we got. The drivers didn’t seem to know where we needed to go and of course couldn’t speak English.
After a few frantic phone calls, a heap of messages, and a cigarette or two, we were finally on the road.
We bid farewell to two of our party who were heading east, and the rest of us climbed on to the van to head west back to Kaş.
The trip was only 45 minutes and so by 1100 I was checking into the hotel.
My sister and the kids stayed at Sardunya Otel and so after getting freshened up I headed back to their hotel to check out their beach club.
We spent the afternoon there swimming and chilling, joined by a couple of friends from Istanbul who came down to visit us for the weekend.
Around 1800 we went back to the room to get tidied up for dinner.
Our hotel was on the other side of town to the one my sister and her family were in.
It’s only a ten minute walk – but an uphill one, in the heat.
At 1930 we were back at their hotel – ready to have an aperitif. I’d been lugging Champagne half way around the world in celebration of my sister’s birthday.
We thought to have it on the boat but in the end we ended up having it on their balcony in Kaş.
Around 2000 we bundled into a taxi headed for La Kumsal Hotel where we’d organised dinner at Sidera Restaurant.
We had a nice dinner, dining al fresco and watching the sun dip down behind the horizon.
We were back at the room around 2300 ready for bed after a long, lazy day.
Wednesday 15
We had breakfast at the hotel early before heading down to the port to get the ferry to Bilal’s Beach Club.
We were at the port by 0930 and on the boat shortly after.
15 minutes later we’d occupied our cabanas and were settling in for a long day of relaxing.
We spent the day swimming, sunbaking, boozing and generally just keeping the waiters on their toes.
We milked just about every last inch of sunshine before hopping back on the ferry around 1730 to head back to Kaş.
We met at 1930 again for a cocktail before dinner – deciding on Loop for sunset drink.
We settled on Gossi Ristorante for dinner – just across the road from the bar.
After dinner we had a walk around the old town before calling it a night.
Thursday 16
Another day, another beach club – today we were heading to Blanca Beach Club.
It’s only 10 mins from Kaş – out on the Peninsula. We were feeling fancy so we called ahead and reserved a couple of cabanas – which were great to keep the sun at bay.
We had another long, lazy day of swimming and sunbaking before around 1800 heading back to civilisation.
Getting a taxi is always an ordeal, even though we’d reserved.
We met at Sardunya Otel again for another bottle of Champagne, before heading down to the waterfront for dinner.
We ended up at Mumi cafe Beach for dinner which was a good vibe but sort of touristy and overpriced.
After dinner we had another stroll around the old town before calling it a night around 2300.
Friday 17
We had an early start with breakfast at the hotel, before looking for our transfer.
We’d organised a van for 15 people from Kas back to Dalaman airport.
It was $250 for the 1.5 hour trip.
We arrived at the airport around 1230 – about two hours before our flight – giving us just enough time for an overpriced snack.
At 1435 TK2559 was taking off – headed for Istanbul.
We landed at 1610 and had organise another transfer to take us into town.
I was at the hotel by 1730 – giving me a couple of hours to get freshened up before heading out for dinner.
I met my sister and her family back at their hotel where we decided to have a quick look at the rooftop before crossing Takism Square for dinner.
We ended up going to Gonen Rooftop Ocakbasi. It turned out to be a bit of a letdown. It was super expensive, service was mediocre and it just wasn’t really a vibe.
By 2300 I was back at the hotel and very ready for bed.
Saturday 18
Saturday was a lazy day getting my affairs in order before heading off to Turkmenistan.
I went up the road to my sister’s hotel to see them off before heading back for a relaxing day.
I did some shopping, before going back to the hotel to chill.
Around 2200 I went up to Taksim Square to try to find a Havabus.
I think I missed it by a minute or so and so I ended up getting a BiTaksi.
I was at the airport around 2300 giving me plenty of time before my 0100 flight (TK324) to Ashgabat.
I ended up flying with Turkish airlines.
The return trip cost me about $1000. Not cheap, but also not a lot of options.
Friday 24
Gavin was up pre-crack of day for his 0500 flight back to Dubai.
My flight was a bit at the much more sociable 0810.
At 0600 the driver picked me up for the quick trip to the airport.
Around 0730 I was boarding TK325 ready for my flight back to Istanbul.
Just after 1000 I arrived at Istanbul airport and an hour later I was on the shuttle en route to Taksim Square.
I checked into Blue Point Hotel for the 15th time this trip.
I had a few chores to do – I had my hair cut and found something for lunch before heading out for a hamam before heading back to the hotel to get dressed up for dinner.
I met my friends at Sureya Kahvalti for a nice farewell dinner.
After dinner, we had a couple of drinks at Kiki in Cihangir before I headed back to the hotel.
Saturday 25
My flight was at 1345 so I got up early to do my last chores – picking up some souvenirs and sweets to take home
At 1125 I hopped in a taxi and by 1200 I was at the Airport.
At 1345 QR2400 took off from Istanbul en route for Istanbul.
I watched a couple of movies and ate too much.
At 1750 we arrived in Doha, giving me a little more than two hours to wander around and stretch my legs before the next leg of my flight.
At 2020 QR904 took off for Melbourne.
Sunday 26
The flight was relatively painless and at 1650 we arrived in Melbourne.
I was close to home, but not there yet, I still had a three hour wait before my quick flight back to Canberra.
FINALLY what felt like the last flight from the airport – 2120 QR7141 – took off for Canberra.
At 2225, after a long day of travel I was finally landing back in the capital.