Sunday 19
At 0650 I landed in Turkmenistan.
Immigration and customs was a bit chaotic but simple enough I suppose – there are a whole bunch of windows and you have to go to one after the other – but it’s not super clear which order you’re supposed to complete the formalities.
I also had to get a Covid test (but my friend didn’t) so who even knows.
The guide told us the Visa was $40, Migration tax was $14 and the PCR test would be $40. I’m not sure the actual prices reflected that, but I was prepared for that, in any case.
I met the guide and we arrived at Hotel Mizan around 0800.
Gavin had already arrived and was fast asleep in the hotel room.
I told them to give me a couple of hours to have a nap and get freshened up.
I had some breakfast and then I was ready to begin our tour in earnest.
At 1000 on the dot the driver and guide came back to collect us.
Our first stop was the ancient settlement of Old Nisa – about 40 minutes out of town.
We had an amble around the ruins for an hour or so before calling it. It was pushing 40 degrees and we were both a little lacking in energy.
In the afternoon we went back into the city to check out some of the sites.
Our first stop was the massive People’s Memory Monument Complex.
Next up was the Wedding Palace where we even managed to crash a wedding.
We ended up at a traditional restaurant (albeit in a shopping mall) for lunch.
I THINK it was called Waka Neo Nomad.
We tried some traditional snacks and some interesting cultural exchanges with our guide before hitting the road.
Lunch was about 400 manat which I think was about $30.
In the afternoon we went to Independence Park and the Constitution Monument before taking a ride on the world’s biggest indoor ferris wheel.
The last stop for the day was the Arc of Neutrality.
At this point we were pretty exhausted so we headed back to the hotel for a swim and a rest.
The pool seemed to be the place to be to escape the heat and so we skipped that and headed inside for a nap, instead.
Around 1900 we were beach out on the town looking for something for dinner.
We ended up at Bayhan Restaurant for dinner and a couple of beers.
Dinner for the three of us was 506 manat.
By 2130 we were heading back to the hotel, very ready for bed after a long day of travel and sight seeing.
Monday 20
We had an early start – with breakfast at the hotel – before heading back to the airport.
Today we were heading into the desert to check out Yangykala Canyon.
The flight to Balkanabat was only an hour or so and by midday we were checking into the brand spanking new airport hotel.
I’m pretty sure we were the first (and only) guests.
We dropped off our bags before hitting the road.
The drive to the canyon probably took us about 3 hours with a quick stop fo rlunch.
The roads aren’t great and once you factor in a couple of stops, plus a breakdown, it was already pushing 5pm.
We spent an hour or so there before heading back to civilisation.
Along the way we stopped off in a little town to try to find some parts for the busted car.
Around 2100 we were back in Balkanabat and stopped off at Uly Balkan for dinner and a drink
Dinner (and a few beers) was 677 manat for the three of us.
By 2300 we were back at the hotel and ready for a shower and bed.
Tuesday 21
We had an early start and breakfast at the hotel before starting our long drive home.
We were on the road at 0800 on the dot heading east for the capital.
Around 1130 we stopped off to explore Köw Ata Underground Lake – a hot spring deep down in a cave.
It was pretty cool and basically deserted so we had a flail before bundling back into the car.
A couple of hours later we were back in Ashgabat ready to check out the controversial Türkmenbaşy Ruhy Mosque.
It’s pretty spectacular and again totally deserted but worth a look if you ever find yourself in the neighbourhood.
We stopped for lunch at Soltan Restaurant – a Turkish restaurant in a shopping mall in the capital.
It cost us 550 Manat for the three of us and the food was pretty good but I’m easily pleased.
We headed downstairs to a supermarket to get some supplies for our next adventure – a trip north into the desert.
We were on the road by 1600 and by 1920 we were coming to our first stop – the Darvaza Water Crater.
It’s pretty interesting but hard to get a good photo of and unfortunately, full of trash.
We took a few snaps before hopping back in the car and continuing on to our final destination for the day – the Darvaza Gas Crater.
It was 2000 before we arrived.
Thankfully, there was still a bit of light left in the day.
We took a million photos before heading up the hill to inspect the damage – to see what our Yurt Camp was like.
While we were stuffing round down at the gas crater, the guides were busy back at the camp preparing a pretty decent meal for us.
We had a few beers before heading back down to the crater to see how it looked at night.
By 2330 we were back in our yurt, ready to hit the sack.
Wednesday 22
We got up early for breakfast and by 0800 we were back on the road heading back towards the capital.
We got back to the hotel around 1230 for a quick shower before heading out again for some lunch.
We ended up having Turkish food, again, at a place called Kebabcy.
Lunch cost us 228 manat and was pretty decent.
The guide also organised me a little cake for my birthday which was thoughtful.
In the afternoon we did some souvenir shopping at the Russian Bazar.
After that, we had a rather random trip to the Equestrian club. Horses are a national treasure so I guess it was worth seeing.
Next up, we went back to the Alem Centre to see the big Ferris Wheel.
We had a few hours relaxing back at the hotel before getting dressed up for dinner.
Around 2000 we headed to Berk Garden Pub for a couple of cocktails and dinner.
By 2230 we were back at the hotel, ready for bed.
Thursday 23
It was our last day in Turkmenistan but we were not defeated – we still had plenty to pack in.
We got up early and had breakfast before the driver came to collect us around 0800.
Before long we were driving east towards the border with Afghanistan.
A couple of hours later we arrived at the Ancient city of Old Merve.
We spent some time exploring the ruins before checking out some of the more contemporary sites and mausoleums.
The Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar was probably the highlight for me.
It was already 1500 before we stopped for lunch at Aladdin Cafe.
Lunch and a couple of drinks cost 259 manat for the three of us.
We had a long drive ahead of us and when we got back to the hotel we had a quick shower and costume change before heading out to dinner.
At 2030 we went to a rooftop restaurant at the Altyn Asyr Sowda Merkezi.
We arrived at Central Park just in time for sunset so spent a bit of time taking pictures before setting in for a couple of beers and a chat with our guide.
By 2230 we were back at the hotel and ready for bed.
Friday 24
Gavin was up pre-crack of day for his 0500 flight back to Dubai.
My flight was a bit at the much more sociable 0810.
At 0600 the driver picked me up for the quick trip to the airport.
Around 0730 I was boarding TK325 ready for my flight back to Istanbul.
Just after 1000 I arrived at Istanbul airport and an hour later I was on the shuttle en route to Taksim Square.
I checked into Blue Point Hotel for the 15th time this trip.
I had a few chores to do – I had my hair cut and found something for lunch before heading out for a hamam before heading back to the hotel to get dressed up for dinner.
I met my friends at Sureya Kahvalti for a nice farewell dinner.
After dinner, we had a couple of drinks at Kiki in Cihangir before I headed back to the hotel.
Saturday 25
My flight was at 1345 so I got up early to do my last chores – picking up some souvenirs and sweets to take home
At 1125 I hopped in a taxi and by 1200 I was at the Airport.
At 1345 QR2400 took off from Istanbul en route for Istanbul.
I watched a couple of movies and ate too much.
At 1750 we arrived in Doha, giving me a little more than two hours to wander around and stretch my legs before the next leg of my flight.
At 2020 QR904 took off for Melbourne.
Sunday 26
The flight was relatively painless and at 1650 we arrived in Melbourne.
I was close to home, but not there yet, I still had a three hour wait before my quick flight back to Canberra.
FINALLY what felt like the last flight from the airport – 2120 QR7141 – took off for Canberra.
At 2225, after a long day of travel I was finally landing back in the capital.