We’d been wanting to check out Lord Howe Islands for an age.
It’s pretty remote and isolated, and so very expensive and we just didn’t find the right time to get there.
My friend’s 40th provided just the opportunity we needed. My sister had also been busting to go and so we decided we’d organise it together, as a surprise for my friend’s 40th.
We hatched the plan more than a year in advance – we knew it was super hard to secure accommodation (and flights) – they only let 400 people on the island at a time.
As soon as the flights became available we nabbed them, and quickly got to planning.
Flights were $1300 per person, for the two hour tip. Not cheap, but also no choice.
What’s more, about half way through 2025, Qantas decided to discontinue flights to Lord Howe Island. Thankfully, Skytrans picked up the route (later, SmartLynx) and everything was fine.
Another moving part in the plan – my friend’s birthday was in December – so I needed to make sure her work would be OK with her taking leave at short notice.
I emailed her boss, who said it would be fine, but of course, when I checked in later in the year she had gone on secondement, so I had to start again.
Anyway it all worked out in the end.
Thursday 15
When the big day finally rolled around, we headed to Sydney airport bright and early to check in for our flight.
We boarded QF2288 and around 0705 we were jetting off, en route to Lord Howe Island.
It’s a really small plane – a Dash 8 – and so we were only able to bring 14kg each. Apparently you can bring a second, 10kg bag, but it’s not guaranteed that it’ll actually arrive on the same day, or at all!
Despite reading online they don’t give you drinks or snacks on the flight, there was service, making the two-hour flight fly by.
Around 0900 we had our first glimpse of the famous peaks of Lord Howe Island and about 10 minutes later we were landing.
Formalities were a breeze and within minutes we were on the shuttle to our hotel – Capella Lodge.
The hotel cost a bomb – just over $32,000 for six nights – and while I was ready to be disappointed, we really weren’t.
Staff were fab, the food was great and our room – while simple – was just what we needed.
On the short drive to the hotel the driver stopped a couple of times so the host could tell us about the island, and some of the activities available to us.
A couple of minutes later, we were at the hotel.
As soon as we arrived we were ushered into the restaurant for breakfast.
We’d already had breakfast in the lounge in Sydney, and got into all the snacks on the plane, so I don’t think anyone was really hungry, but that didn’t stop us.
The restaurant, like the rest of the hotel is bright and airy with glass walls meaning you’ve got amazing views from wherever you’re sitting.
They also do a good job of rotating you through the various spots in the restaurant during your stay so you can get all the angles.
After breakfast we were escorted to our room.
We ended up booking a Catalina Suite – which was a two-level, two bedroom suite with a little terrace and a private plunge pool.
The minibar was free and restocked daily, and we got good use out of it.
We dumped our bags and got changed up before heading back to reception to be fitted with our bikes (the main mode of transport on the island) and helmets.
Around 1100 we were tearing down the hill and into town looking for the beginning of the Kim’s Lookout Hike.
We stopped along the way at the Reef N Beyond boat shed to book our trip to see the Galapagos Sharks. We’d also had a booking to see Ball’s Pyramid but because of the weather it was looking unlikely that we’d actually get there.
We were under the impression it was an easy 5km hike – but it’s anything but that.
It was hot and sunny as we made our sluggish ascent to the top.
It was only midday but we’d had a very early start and I think we were all feeling it.
By about 1330, with stinging legs, we’d made it to the top. The views were pretty epic and I GUESS it was worth it.
I think some people turn around and head back – but we planned on continuing down the ridge towards Ned’s Beach.
Somehow making our way down the mountain wasn’t much easier than heading up but about 1500 we made it.
The beach (like everything on Lord Howe) was clean and clear and beautiful.
We were hot, tired and sticky and so quick to get changed and hop in the water.
You can buy fish food, and rent wetsuits and snorkel gear and beach chairs and umbrellas at the beach – and it’s very cheap – so hardly worth taking your own gear.
We had free snorkel gear from the hotel so didn’t need it but grabbed some fish food to feed the friendly fish.
We spent a couple of hours swimming and sunning before heading back to find our bikes.
We had a look at the Jetty and Lovers’ Beach on the way home before heading back to the room to relax in our little pool.
We got into the minibar – sampling a selection of snacks and drinks – before getting dressed up for dinner.
Around 1800 each day the hotel offers you cocktails and canapes so we were keen to head down to the restaurant.
After an hour or so in the sun, we were shown our table ready to feast.
We were back to the room around 2130 very ready for bed after a mammoth day.
Friday 16
As is always the way, we were up early so decided to go for a pre-breakfast walk.
We headed down the road, north, along the coast to check out a few of the nearby beaches.
The walk only took us about 40 minutes each way, and while we could have gone further to Rocky Point or Boat Harbour Point, we figured we’d better get back and get ready for our trip to see the Galapagos Sharks.
Around 0900 we were back at the hotel, ready for our next gorging session.
After breakfast, we hopped back on the bikes – ready to do another hike.
The girl in the hotel said the walk to Mutton Bird Point wasn’t a super difficult one, and so we thought we’d give that a go.
The start was only a couple of KMs from us, down opposite the airport.
We had booked with Reef N Beyond – the only operator on the island. It cost $220 per person and was set to leave from the Jetty around 1400.
I had to go a little early because I needed to sign the waiver for my hike on Monday to Mount Gower.
I arrived at the Jetty before the others so had enough time to get the drone out and take some shots of the island.
Right on 1400, we were boarding the boat – ready for our adventure.
The tour went to a few different spots – snorkelling and looking for sharks.
We saw one or two at the second spot and thought we were winning, but a couple of hours later, we stopped near the north coast and had a treat.
The captain lowered a speaker into the water and was blasting all sorts of music (the Jaws theme song – disconcerting; Queen and AC/DC) – apparently the curious sharks like the music.
Right on schedule, they came. Probably a dozen of them, perilously close to our toes.
Around 1700, we were heading back to the hotel to begin what was going to be our routine for the next week – cheese and biscuits at the pool, before transferring ourselves to the restaurant for cocktails, canapes and dinner.
Saturday 17
For our pre-breakfast walk we decided to head down to Blinky Beach – just at the foot of the airport – to see what it’s all about.
It was pretty grey and miserable and very windy but worth a look.
I’m not sure if it’s a drawcard – but the Sooty Terns seem to prefer the dunes along the beach as a nesting spot – and they were EVERYWHERE. I’m not sure if they were thrilled to see us.
After breakfast, we decided to hike down to Little Island – in part to see what I’d be in for the following day, when I attempted the Mount Gower hike on Sunday.
It was an easy 30 minute walk along the coastline from the hotel with nice sections through the forest.
I put the drone up to see what’s what, and after a while, we decided to head back to the hotel.
In the afternoon we decided to cycle into the town. A couple of us did the Steven’s Reserve Trail – a short loop showcasing a lot of the island’s unique plantlife – before stopping at Anchorage for a drink and a snack.
On the way home we stopped at Lovers’ Beach for a swim and relax in the sun.
When we got back to the hotel, we were straight in the hot tub for our pre-dinner snacks.
Sunday 18
I had a very early start ahead of my hike to Mount Gower.
The hotel orgainsed breakfast for me but I struggled to get it all down before the hike.
Around 0700 I was at the meeting point – down the hill from our hotel.
I did the hike with a private guide – orgainsed through – Lord Howe Island Environmental. It cost $700. It would have been cheaper if more people came but no one else in my group was up for it.
I did private because I didn’t want to be held up by a grannie in the group, but in the end, compared to the guide, I was that granny.
Everyone on the island tells you how challenging the hike is – and you need to sign a waiver saying you’re “mountain fit” and vowing to keep up with the guide.
Basically about 30 seconds into the hike, the ascent begins. And it doesn’t stop, until you’re at the top.
I think it was 14 kilometres in total – and the 7km uphill stretch was relentless. Someone said it was more mental than physical, but I think it was both. As well as clambering up hill for two hours, there are a number of sections where you have to haul yourself up using cold, wet ropes.
It was cool and cloudy, which was probably a godsend, and by 0926, I’d made it to the top.
It was a total washout, so after a quick snap, we started the long walk back down.
Typically, about five minutes into the return hike, I fell on my knee. The guide had already left me for dead and while I was trying to lift myself out of the mud, I noticed I was covered in leaches. There was so much going on, and I didn’t have anyone to whinge at, so I just had to pick myself up and keep going.
I limped out of the hike around 1110 and to add insult to injury, I had the cycle back up the hill to the hotel.
When I arrived I discovered my friends had gone into town for lunch, so I got back on my bike and with very jelly legs, cycled in.
We headed back to the hotel for a swim and relax before heading down to the restaurant for dinner and a hundred drinks.
Monday 19
We had a pre-breakfast walk down to Cobby Corner, before heading back to the hotel to gorge.
After breakfast we decided to try to tackle the Intermediate Hill Hike.
The hike was far from easy – especially with my legs like concrete, wrecked from the day before but after 40 minutes of climbing step after step after step we made it to the lookout.
The views were pretty epic and we had a stunning day which helped.
I put the drone up for some epic footage before we continued down the hill.
In the afternoon we decided to head back to Ned’s Beach for a swim and snorkel.
When we got back to the hotel, I put the drone up to take advantage of the blue sky and nice light.
Back in our room, we had a cheese and biscuit buffet before heading to the restaurants for Canapes, cocktails and dinner.
Tuesday 20
Before breakfast, we headed back down to Little Island for a walk.
After brekkie we were back on our bikes – headed into town to try Jim’s for a coffee. It’s just a little local house with a cafe set in its garden. It’s pretty nice and very relaxed.
Continuing on our way, we headed to Old Settlement Beach for a swim and to see if we could spot any turtles.
It was sort of cold and windy and so after a little splash we decided to relocate back to Ned’s.
We spent the afternoon swimming, feeding the fish and relaxing in the sun before calling it.
Around 1600 we headed back to the hotel for a drink and snack and to get ready for dinner.
Wednesday 21
Our flight wasn’t until 1510 and we were determined to squeeze as much out of the trip as possible.
We had a walk down to Cobby Corner again before heading back to the hotel for our last breakfast.
My sister had rescheduled her massage for this morning, while me and Lauren decided to go for a cycle.
We stopped off at Blinky Beach to see how it was looking given the wind was coming from the west.
We continued into town – hoping to check out Middle Beach.
It was quite a slog up the hill, but it was worth a look.
We did the little hike to Clear Space and Valley of the Shadows before stopping to admire Middle Beach.
We were too lazy and tired to hike down to the beach and the lookout was pretty spectacular.
Around 1230 we headed back to the hotel ready to bundle all our things back into the shuttle and head down the road to the airport.
Similarly to arrival, departure formalities were a breeze and before long our little plane was touching down.
At 1500 we were boarding QF2291 en route to Sydney.
A little over two hours later, at 1725 we touched down, bringing our week in paradise to an end.